This form of veiling by married women is still prevalent in Hindi-speaking areas, and is known as ghoonghat where the loose end of a sari is pulled over the head to act as a facial veil. This may indicate that it was not necessary for unmarried females to put on a veil. He says that a married lady was expected to put on a veil while moving in the public. Śūdraka, the author of Mṛcchakatika set in fifth century BC says that the Avagaunthaha was not used by women everyday and at every time. The same sentiment is more generically expressed in later Sanskrit literature. In the Pratimānātaka, a play by Bhāsa describes in context of Avagunthana veil that ' ladies may be seen without any blame (for the parties concerned) in a religious session, in marriage festivities, during a calamity and in a forest'. Įarly Sanskrit literature has a wide vocabulary of terms for the veiling used by women, such as Avagunthana (oguntheti/oguṇthikā), meaning cloak-veil, Uttariya meaning shoulder-veil, Mukha-pata meaning face-veil and Sirovas-tra meaning head-veil. Between 2nd century B.C to 1st century A.D, Antariya and Uttariya was merged to form a single garment known as sari mentioned in Pali literature, which served the purpose of two garments in one-piece.

Likewise, Stanapatta evolved into choli by 1st century A.D.

Uttariya was a shawl-like veil worn over the shoulder or head, it evolved into what is known today known as dupatta and ghoongat. It further evolved into Bhairnivasani skirt, today known as ghagri and lehenga. Ancient Antriya closely resembled dothi wrap in the 'fishtail' version which was passed through legs, covered the legs loosely and then flowed into a long, decorative pleats at front of the legs. This complete three-piece dress was known as Poshak, generic term for costume. This ensemble is mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali literature during the 6th century B.C. The Sari or Sattika evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the Antriya, the lower garment the Uttariya a veil worn over the shoulder or the head and the Stanapatta, a chestband. The word 'sari' evolved from 'sattika' mentioned in earliest Jain and Buddhist literature as women's attire.

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